Not Quite a Local, Yet

I've decided to start a blog while I am here, instead of sending out the mass emails. This way, more people can see what I have to say about South Africa.

I've been here for a grand total of 22 days, and already, I feel like I belong. Of course, there are so many things that I have yet to grasp about this country, this culture, but I know that if I put the effort into it, this could be my home.

I have started class already, and I can tell that I am going to enjoy it immensely. Instead of sticking strictly to classes that apply to my major, I am taking a menagerie of courses. And Overview of South African History is, so far, my worst class. And by that, I mean that I have a very tactless professor. He has clearly taught his fair share of international students, and he stereotypes students from different countries like I can't even describe. He had a small group of us stay after class one day and showed us a collection of South African commercials that were, in my eyes, racist. He, however, was defending them, claiming they were in good fun and not really racist. At one point, I nearly started a... heated discussion (if you will) with him. I left well enough alone, though.

My other courses have been superb. My two favorites so far, and I hypothesize they'll remain my favorites, are my two English classes. The first is called "Writing Violence" and we'll be studying how violence is represented in books and movies. I'm thrilled. The class is made up mostly of local South African students, and only a handful of internationals. I am trying to get to know them as best I can, and look forward to it. The second class I am most anticipating is Queer Studies. This one is also a collection of local and international students. It seems all, or at least most, of the people in that class are ready for deep debate and conversation on the readings and assignments. Aside from Brokeback Mountain, all our readings are by South African writers, a number of which are (or were) even faculty at University of Stellenbosch (US). Our first assignment, other than reading, was to research the etymology of the word "queer." I've never enjoyed doing homework more. Needless to say, I am pumped for almost all of my academics here.

Aside from getting to know the school has been getting to know the town. It's absolutely gorgeous here. I've mentioned before how Stellenbosch is almost completely surrounded by mountains, and I'll post some photos also. It's also wine country, so there are vineyards sprinkled in and around the town. Much like the Pullman area is called "the Palouse", this area is called "Boland", and Boland is filled with good, cheap wine. About a week ago, we opened a bottle of Riesling from Paarl that cost R35, or $5, and it was delicious. We opened a bottle of Pinotage Rose (a type of wine they do not export) that cost R21, or $3, last night and it was also quite lovely. That, paired with the wine course I'll be taking here, will positively ruin me for cheap wine back home.

My roommate, Jenna, and I are "basically a practical joke," so says our new friend, Stephanie. One would think that mixing a conservative devout traditionalist Catholic with a liberal feminist lesbian would be the start of a corny joke, but it turns out that we get along quite well. Despite our rather deep conversations on the matter of religion and somewhat lighter discussions of politics, we've managed to try to see an issue from the other's point of view quite respectfully. I'm glad to be rooming (flatting? it is a flat) with someone who is of the same mind as me in regards to our passions in Africa. We are here for what seems to be the same reasons, and for that, I am grateful to be sharing this experience with her.

As for the more serious aspects of living in South Africa, I can definitely feel my world perspectives broadening. It is one thing to know the facts surrounding racial and socioeconomic disparity in sub-Saharan Africa, but it is an entirely different thing to see it. Stellenbosch is a sort of bubble. It's a small town with a gorgeous campus at it's heart, surrounded by quaint European-esque shops and restaurants. Safety is less of an issue than the larger Cape Town. However, if you travel a meer three or four kilometers outside of the main city block, it becomes obvious that there are vast differences in the lives of the locals. On the outskirts of town lies Kayamandi, a township inhabited by 35,000 people just surviving. It is a 100% black and coloured community, and it is what most ill-educated westerners picture when imagining Africa. The streets are covered in garbage and filth, the houses are constructed of tin or, if you're lucky, plywood. The house numbers are spray-painted on. The shops are all in shipping crates, if that. I will be working at Ikaya Primary School with a classroom of 7th graders.

Also, despite the fact that South Africa has rebounded amazingly from Apartheid, especially in only 15 years, there are still very clear racial lines. Jenna was talking about walking to church this morning, and how as she was walking, she was completely surrounded by black South Africans. She realized that was because all the whites drive to church, and the blacks walk. During church, they pay a man, black as it happens, to watch the cars during the service. So, although they've made leaps and bounds at repairing society in terms of race and race relations, much farther than the US has done, they still have a long way to go.

All in all, I am very happy here, with the exception of missing loved ones at home. I can't wait to continue growing and learning in this gorgeous country. It offers so much that I have yet to discover, and I am more than excited to bask in all that is South Africa.